Stage I
1. Replace brake cylinders & pads
An image of the interior after removing carpet.
To make the Bunyip mobile two key aspects need to be addressed. The Brakes and seats. At present there are no front seats but more importantly the brake master cylinder and the four slave cylinders that are actuated by the master cylinder. When you push your foot in the brake through leverage each of the slave cylinders which administer the brakes.
The rule of thumb is: Make it stop. Make it handle. Make it go!
Brakes are pivotal and need to be reliable. I’m reluctant to work on the brakes myself but need to know how they work so will be fixing the brakes myself but having the local mechanic inspect my work to ensure they have been done properly and work as required.
Playing with the motor.
A very good friend of mine has given me disc brakes and these are much better than drum brakes. The authorities look favorably on this modification as disc brakes are now found on most modern cars.
(*v*)
2. Install factory seats & rails:
Seating is an important part of the car. Most people install after market seating which then require engineering. I prefer not to have my car engineered and have opted to stick to the factory seats. The problem I have is that although I have found seat rails at a local wreckers, they do not have seats. Fortunately I received a phone call this morning from a mate who has two front seats for me. I just need to go and pick them up and buy a few other items he has for sale. They will need reupholstering but hopefully I can get this done without too much hassle.
(*v*)
3. Plate heater channel rust.
Rear seat and insulation removed.
This rust is not structural and is cosmetic, however it needs to be done properly so it does not need to be redone. Heater channels allow air from the motor to move up from the engine and onto the front windscreen. If they are exposed air does not affectively pump onto the screen to defog the windscreen.
These appear to have been braised in the past but the surrounding metal has since rusted away. Had the job been done properly then the rust would have continued.
(*v*)
4. Replace wiring and connections.
6 Volt Electrics. Playing sparky games.
Although this is not the priority it needs to be done and it wont be as expensive as the above jobs. Wiring is an ongoing task but for not it needs to be functional and reliable. Two decision face me when it comes to wiring.
To 12volt or to not 12volt. Currently (pun aside) the Bunyip runs on 6 volt. There is really no reason it cannot stay as 6 volt as I’m not interested in car radios, two way radios or additional lighting. That being said the current system is very old and unreliable. Even if we did get it functional it wouldn’t take much to make it unreliable again.
1300cc Single Port Flat Four Air-cooled motor.
So, while I have the time and means we will be converting it to 12 volt with the addition of a new fuse box and replacement wiring.
Fittings will also be reconditioned and bulbs replaced to 12 volt. The starter will remain 6 volt as will the wiper motor for the interim. These will need to be replaced eventually as they will burnout over time. I would like to eventually change bulbs to HID and LED but for now the aim is to get it reliable and functional for registration. Two good mates, Paul and Toddy are keen to have a go at making it all work so I just need to get the materials.
(*v*)
5. Recondition mechanicals:
Starting project.
This element requires the removal of the motor and transaxle for testing, cleaning, painting and replacement of seals and suspension components. Over time the mechanicals suffer significant neglect. This particular car has had seatbelts bolted in, the drivers seat bolted in and wiring spliced in and bypasses of the fuse system. It would be fair to say a part owner just drove it and didn’t care much for the mechanicals so long as they were working. This said, it is important the mechanicals are made reliable. This is a 45 year old car and over time components wear. I need this car to be reliable for my work and also for the safety of my passengers, not to mention myself. While I have the time I’d like to ensure everything works as required.
(*v*)
6. Blue Slip & Register.
Water blasting the floor and firewall.
The end of Stage I is to see the Bunyip registered in Beetle form without any Baja guards and components / additions added. This will require blue slipping to ensure it is safe and meets, if not exceeds the requirements of the day (1965). Engineers have a responsibility to ensure other road users are safe and will be checking over all aspects of the vehicle. I will be using their checklist to mark off each element. I’ve been fortunate to have had blue slipped two Bajas to date.
(*v*)
Stage II
7. Install Baja kit (guards, wheels, cage).
Toddy having an initial look at the wiring.
Legally when you add Baja guards you are not changing the structural nature of the car. So by changing the guards and adding a cage to the engine you are not impacting on the integrity of the vehicle itself. This being said, in my experience, it is hard to get an engineer to take the time to read over the ADR’s and interpret it this way. So to save myself the hassle I will be modifying it post registration and then having it reinspected to endure tire sizes meet ADR requirements.
The second reason I have decided to do this post rego is that the bending and welding of a cage takes time and I’d prefer to have this all done after I’m already on the road.
Preparing the floor for seat rails.
The actual conversion only takes a weekend and do would prefer to do it when I have all the required parts and people will welding skills available.
(*v*)
8. Improve brakes, clearances and lighting.
Stage I is just getting the car up to registration. Improvements are numerous and can be made as funds become available.
Hunter removing glue and insulation.
Such as upgrading to disc brakes and changing the pad type to suit the weight of the car.
Wheel clearances can sometimes be a problem, especially when off-roading and so the suspension my be adjusted as required. Ultimately I would like an additional two inches clearance but as it is swing axle this can only be done well with reduction boxes. Reduction boxes are hard to come by and also throw out the top speed by reducing the entire gear ratio.
Visibility is important to me. Ultimately I would like the headlights to remain on through the day and have the park lights, indicators and tail/brake lights converted to LED. LED lighting is very robust and can stand significant vibration and water immersion. With 100,000 hours functional use it is the clear choice.
(*v*)
9. Cosmetics
Visually I’m seeking what is called the “Rat Look”. Essentially this means the entire exterior of the car looks old and neglected.
Plenty of help to change the Bunyip.
As if it has been driven from a shed or chook pen and number plates thrown onto it. However, although this is the case externally, mechanically and internally the entire car is A1 and if not in factory condition then better. Suspension, pan, engine, transaxle, brakes, wheels, wiring, seats etc are all detailed and kept in pristine condition.
Rat Look has become popular in the last 5 years and is an extension on “The Sleeper” mentality where an ordinary car may have a hidden turbo or larger displacement motor tucked away ready to blow away V8′s at the lights (on a drag strip of course). Usually to achieve the ‘Rat Look’ the car is intentionally left to rust and weather but is halted with the addition of a lacquer to protect the body from structural rust.
Chandler giving the motor some revs.
I have a better plan.
I plan to sand back the exterior and lay down an under coat. As the Baja will have fibreglass guards that unfortunately don’t rust, I plan to coat the entire car in a special rusting paint that will look like the car is rusting but isn’t actually. This will also ensure I don’t have to spray the car with a lacquer.
(*v*)
10. Why?
“Why Rat Look.? Why can’t you just be ordinary and paint it like blue or green or something?”
If I wanted to be ordinary I’d drive a Toyota or Commodore, not a VW. Many years ago while at Stockton we were exploring tracks off the back of the dunes. I had my previous Baja and while many of the buggy guys with there flash paint jobs they had to stop as soon as the track became too overgrown. I enjoyed not having to care that my car was being scratched as it was going to get painted one day anyhow.
The Drop Bear playing in the Mud!
With having it “going to get painted one day” for about 5 years I managed to push my way into some of the most amazing places I had ever seen. The truth is, not only do I not want to spend a $1000 on a paint job, but I don’t want to not be able to drive my car where I want to because of it. For me, Rat Look is the perfect alternative. My car is 45 years old and although I’d like to have modern improvements to the mechanical, electrical and interior elements, I’m most certainly not out to impress.
Volksrod VW (Rat Patrol)
One day, far far away I’d like to build a Volksrod. That will be a different story as it will be a street car and unlikely to be pushing down bush tracks. That may have a better paint job but that a story for another time and another blog.
Volksrod Rat Patrol Build.
